History and Location

After India attained independence from the clutches of the British rule in the year 1947, Maharashtra went through a number of political changes. Post independence period saw the western Maharashtra and present day Gujarat being united under the Bombay state, the eastern parts which were a part of the Hyderabad state were later also united with the Bombay state in the year 1956.

The modern state of Maharashtra came into existence in the year 1960, under the Bombay Reorganization Act. The states of Maharashtra and Gujarat were legally given the status of separate states on the basis of linguistic differences. The present Bombay city became the capital city of Maharashtra. The modern history of Maharashtra includes the period from attainment of independence to the final separation of the states.

In the post independence period of Maharashtra the most important development was the formation of Maharashtra as a separate state. After the princely states during the British rule came under the Indian union, separate states were created out of them keeping in mind language and regional differences. Thus the states of Maharashtra and Gujarat were formed from the Bombay presidency state. The regions where there was predominance of Marathi speaking people were taken under the Bombay Presidency, which formed Maharashtra.

Maharashtra is situated in the western part of India and covers the entire Deccan region. With an area of approximately 308,000 sq km, it has the distinction of being counted among one of the largest states of India. The state stands bounded by Chhattisgarh in the east, Madhya Pradesh in the north, Karnataka in the south, Goa in the southwest, Andhra Pradesh in the southeast and Gujarat in the northwest. Dadra and Nagar Haveli, one of the Union territories is situated in between Maharashtra and Gujarat. It is located between 20° 00′ N latitudes and 76° 00′ E longitudes.

The mighty Arabian Sea makes up the west coast of Maharashtra. Running parallel to this coast are the Sahyadri Hills, also known as the Western Ghats, which rise upto the height of 1,200 meters (4,000 feet). To the east of the ghats lies the Deccan Plateau. On the other hand, the Konkan coastal plains are situated to their west and boast of a width of 50-80 kilometers. Western Ghats are one of the three watersheds of India and it is from here that most of the rivers in South India have found their origin.

Maharashtra with a population of 96 million in 2001 emerged as the second most populous state in India. With about 9% of India’s population, Maharashtra produces country’s 19% of industrial output, 15% of service sector output, and about 13% of GDP. Its per capita income of Rs. 22,179 in 2000-01 makes it the third richest state in India after Punjab and Haryana. As per the Census 2001, literacy rate was 76.9 per cent. It was 86.0 per cent and 67.0 per cent for males and females respectively. However, as per the results of NSS 64th Round (July, 2007-June 2008), the literacy rates for males and females have increased to 86.2 per cent and 69.3 per cent respectively.

Gross State Domestic Product

As per the advance estimates, Gross State Domestic Product (GSDP) of Maharashtra at constant (1999-2000) prices, is expected to grow at the rate of 9.0 per cent during 2007-2008 as against 9.7 per cent during 2006-07. The sectoral growth rates of GSDP are expected to be at 5.7 per cent for Primary, 10.4 per cent for Secondary and 9.1 per cent for Tertiary Sectors. For 2006-07, the GSDP at constant (1999-2000) prices for Maharashtra is estimated at Rs. 3,76,783 crore as against Rs. 3,43,501 crore in 2005-06. At current prices, GSDP for 2006-07 is estimated at Rs. 5,09,356 crore as against Rs. 4,38,058 crore in the previous year, showing an increase of 16.3 per cent.

State Income

As per the preliminary estimates, the State Income (i.e. Net State Domestic Product) of Maharashtra at current prices for the year 2006-07 is Rs. 4,37,035 crore and the per capita State Income is Rs. 41,331. At constant (1999-2000) prices, the State Income for 2006-07 is estimated at Rs. 3,25,148 crore and the per capita State Income at Rs. 30,750.

It has been seen from the above table that Growth Rate of 8.9% during the eighth plan, the target set for tenth plan is quite achievable but declaration of growth rate to 4.7% per annum during the ninth plan seems to be difficult. Most state grew slower in the ninth plan than in the eighth plan, with the exception of West Bengal and Orissa. But for a fair comparison Maharashtra can be compared with the other high-income states like Andhra Pradesh,Tamilnadu, Kerala, Karnataka, Gujarat, Punjab and Haryana.

It is observed that Gujarat recorded a growth rate of 7.5%, Tamil Nadu 6.8%, Karnataka 6.1%, Andhra Pradesh 5.7%, Punjab 4.5%, and Haryana 4.6% during 1985-86 to 2000-01 while Maharashtra recorded a growth rate of 7.3%. That being so, it would be appropriate to state that Maharashtra is poised to go on a higher path of growth provided it modifies its goals and priorities and devises new directions in the rapidly changing economy of the country.

Maharashtra contributes 18% to the country’s industrial output. The manufacturing sector in Maharashtra made net value addition of 21.5% and deploys 17% of the fixed capital in the organised industrial sector in 2000-2001 (GOM, 2003). But the factory employment has decreased from 14.7% 1990-91 to 11.2% in 1999- 2000. The industrial activity in Maharashtra is concentrated in four districts, viz. Mumbai City, Mumbai Suburban District, Thane and Pune.

A lot can be learnt from the socio-cultural aspects of a community through the food, language and clothing patterns. Clothing and textiles have been important in human history and reflect the materials available to a civilization as well as the technologies that had been mastered. The significance of the finished product reflects their culture, social standing and community aspects. The evolution of fabrics can be traced through the historical evolution of a region.

The present day Maharashtra state boasts a long history of empires and political prowess and its impact on the local culture and people. Along with the advents of rulers and their empires came a variety cultures deeply rooted in memory and also in the particular ways of life. There has been a huge influence on the culture of food, clothing, music, architecture and other intangible aspects of communities. Maharashtra has a history of being ruled by the Sultanates, the Mughals and the Marathas and Peshwas. These empires created patronage in terms of industries, artisans and crafts. Fabric and handloom is an important aspect which was transported to this region and became indigenous through time.

In this article, we will discuss the handlooms which have developed during the reigns of these empires and also which have indigenous origins based on the availability of materials and communities and their occupations. The types of handlooms in the state vary according to geography, climate, socio-cultural and economic aspects as well as the historical events which has shaped the cultural landscape.

1.PAITHANI
Region	Aurangabad
GI Status	Protected
Historic Links	Roman, Later Peshwa
Period Of Origin	17th Century CE
Materials	Silk
Loom Type	Fly shuttle, pit loom
Design Pattern	Oblique square design, and a pallu with a peacock design
Brief Description	Cotton and silks woven in India were one of the principal trade items until the 20th century CE, with brocades, fine cotton and linen being exported along with spices and other items. The Paithani, originating from Paithan is one such handloom treasure purely woven in silk and Zari.
Evolution	The traditional Paithani saree is manufactured by hand in pure silk and dyed in traditional colours. Silk was originally sourced from Bangalore or Surat and zari was sourced from Gujarat. Preparation of silk, preparation of zari, dyeing and weaving was all carried out in Paithan with the traders from Paithan establishing guilds for weaving of sarees.  This range of ancillary activities also influenced the urban form of Paithan.Trade records from the 2nd century BCE maintain mentions of the silks and cotton of Pratishthana (Paithan) being exchanged for Roman wines and olive oil. Paithan has thus been a flourishing trade and textile town since the 2nd century BCE, however the craft of the Paithani really flourished in the 17th century and further reached its zenith in the early 19th century before witnessing a slow decline over time till it was revived in the 1960s and 1970s.
Photo	Source: https://d218kegnl5or7l.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Paithani-Fabric3.jpg

2. HIMROO
Region	Aurangabad
GI Status	Protected
Historic Links	Persian Origin; Deccan Sultanate
Period Of Origin	15th Century CE
Materials	Silk and Cotton
Loom Type	Throw Shuttle
Design Pattern	Geometrical and floral. Intricate creeper designs are popular.
Brief Description	Himroo is a type of extra-weft manufactured ordinarily from cotton and viscose rayon yarn on a cotton ground. It is also woven from silk yarn and gold thread on a silk ground giving it a satiny sheen. The design is decided at the outset since two kinds of threads are mixed. This handloom has historically been produced in Aurangabad. These fabrics denoted nobility and royalty in olden times.
Evolution	Kinkhwab was originally an elegant, heavy silk fabric with a floral or figured pattern known most for its butis and jals woven with silk as the warp and tilla as the weft, produced in China and Japan. Tilla in the earlier times was known as kasab. It was a combination of silver and tamba (copper) which was coated with a veneer of gold and silver. Kinkhwabs have also been known as ‘Kimkhabs’, ‘Kamkhwabs’, ‘Kincobs’, ‘Zar-baft’ (Gold Woven), zartari, zarkashi, mushaiar.
Photo	Source: http://www.himroofabrics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Himroo-Saree-Coton-and-Silk.jpg

3. KHANA
Region	South Maharashtra and North Karnataka
GI Status	Protected
Historic Links	Chalukyas and Adil Shahi Sultanate
Period Of Origin	15th Century CE
Materials	Silk and art silk (viscose) and pure cotton yarn, procured in the form of hank
Loom Type	Pit loom having no warp beam
Design Pattern	Geometrical honeycomb pattern, flowers, creeper, fruits and seeds.
Brief Description	Khana material is a historically and culturally significant fabric in Maharashtra and Karnataka. It is made with extra warp dobby figures and is always produced by keeping definite width and length.
Evolution	There is no definite historical evidence as to when the handloom weaving industry started at Ilkal and Guledgudd of present-day Karnataka state. But according to popular belief and circumstances, it might have been started in the 8th century CE when the Chalukya Dynasty was in power in this region.For social and religious celebrations and worship, it is a tradition to offer a sari and the khana blouse piece to the God. It is always folded in a typical triangular shape. The folding of the blouse piece in the said typical triangular shape was traditionally called as khanas.  (S.F.Harlapur)
Photo	Source: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2100/7285/products/IMG-20170717-WA0006_533aaab6-c0f3-448c-a679-c01d7c4159ca_1024x1024.jpg?v=1500273481

4. SOLAPUR CHADAR
Region	Solapur
GI Status	Protected
Historic Links	Peshwas; Industrial Revolution.
Period Of Origin	16th Century CE
Materials	Cotton
Loom Type	Jacquard machines
Design Pattern	Geometrical and floral pattens.
Brief Description	The cotton chaddars (known as Jacquard chaddars) manufactured in the hand-loom industry are known for their design and durability. These chaddars are popularly known as Solapur chaddars, and have a demand all over the country. The main centres of manufacture of these chaddars are:  (Maharashtra State Gazetteer, , 1977)Tikekar Textile MillsChippa Weaving MillsMarda Weaving MillsGangji Weaving MillsKshirsagar Weaving MillsRapeli Weaving Mills
Evolution	The development of the handloom weaving industry in Solapur seems to have commenced in the regime of the Peshwas. The settlement of Madhavrao Peth (the present Mangalwar Peth) in Solapur sometime in the last quarter of the 18th century CE proved to be an attraction to many trading and artisan families from the Nizam’s territory. These included some families of caste weavers such as Khetri, Momin etc. The improvement and extension of roads and the increasing availability of better and cheaper means of communications from the 19th century onwards also helped the handloom weaving industry in the district to thrive. The extension of the railway line up to Solapur in 1860 accelerated the expansion of the industry and the trade in handloom products of Solapur extended beyond the Deccan districts. As a result of this thriving trade, the number of handlooms in Solapur gradually increased. Relief to weavers in their own craft during the famines of 1896-97 and 1900-1901 enabled the industry to regain its pre-famine position. By 1903 the number of looms in Solapur again rose to about 7,850.
Photo	Source: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/616H2ud977L.jpg

5. GHONGADI
Region	Nandurbar
GI Status	Not Protected
Historic Links	Local shepherd community
Period Of Origin	16th century CE
Materials	Organic virgin wool
Loom Type	Pit loom
Design Pattern	Geometrical patterns.
Brief Description	This natural thermal blanket better known as Ghongadi is woven from the yarn made from the hair of sheep. Environmentally friendly, Ghongadi is an organic fabric that is usually used to make outdoor clothing but is also used to make blankets, socks and fine clothing.This fabric is used to make clothing that is warm and well insulated. When washed in cool water these blankets will never shrink, fade or have any of the colors run. Washing simply makes them softer and stronger.Ghongadi is a natural fibre that is both renewable and sustainable. It is also said to have medicinal healing properties if used as either a blanket or to sleep over, such as preventing blood clots, skin allergies and back pain.
Evolution	Nomads and shepherds in Southern Maharashtra developed this handloom.
Photo	Source: https://2.imimg.com/data2/FH/XI/MY-1600544/natural-thermal-warmer-ghongadi-500×500.jpg

6. DHURRIE
Region	Vidarbha
GI Status	Not Protected
Historic Links	Maniyar community
Period Of Origin	16th century CE
Materials	Cotton, wool, jute, silk
Loom Type	Pit loom
Design Pattern	Geometrical patterns.
Brief Description	Woven cotton carpets or Dhurries (also known as Satrangi, shatrangji) have developed displaying vivid imagination and sensitivity to aesthetics. Dhurrie weaving is the interlacing of a set of vertical threads i.e. warp, with a set of horizontal threads, i.e. weft. It is always weft-faced, that is, the warps are never visible except at the fringes because they are completely covered by the wefts. In its simplest form, Dhurrie is a weft-faced plain tabby weave The designs are geometric, floral or even tribal.  (getDetailsStates.php?type=maharashtra&subtype=Dhurries-Weaving, n.d.)
Evolution	Flat weave dhurries are woven on frame looms in several districts of Maharashta, which is one of the largest cotton-growing states of the country. The weavers of the Maniyar community weave three types of dhurries:plain flat weave shatranji,Jainamaaz, prayer mats with single or multiple prayer nichesChindi or rag dhurries.Cotton dhurries are used as floor spreads to set or sleep on and as prayer mats with the prayer niche placed in the direction of Mecca.  (Aditi Ranjan, 2007)
Photo	Source: https://a.1stdibscdn.com/archivesE/upload/8555/49_13/4924_s__version_2/4924_S__Version_2_l.jpg

7. HAND BLOCK PRINTS FROM VIDARBHA
Region	Vidarbha
GI Status	Not Protected
Historic Links	Bavasar community
Period Of Origin	16th Century CE
Materials	Hand-woven silk or mill-made chiffon cloth, block orienting done by wooden or copper blocks.
Loom Type	NA
Design Pattern	Floral and animal designs
Brief Description	Hand block printing is extensively done in the Vidarbha area of Maharashtra. Bavasars (as the community is known) mainly use natural colors.The practitioners of this craft in Maharashtra are mainly migrants from other parts of India. The painting is done with delicately carved wooden and brass blocks. The cloth on which hand-printing is done is either hand-woven silk or mill-made chiffon cloth. The results are multi-colour designs in traditional patterns. The ‘Tree of Life’ motif is very widely used. Metal blocks as well as wooden blocks are used by Maharashtrian craftsmen to deck up the block print fabrics.The artisans engaged in this craft are called ‘bavasars’ in this state. Quilts, floor coverings and bed covers are the various products which utilize block print, wherein the dominant colours are red and black.Utilitarian items and those meant for decorative purposes employ the craft of block printing. Various kinds of motifs are crafted by the block print artisans of this part of India.  (http://www.indianetzone.com/67/block_print_western_india.htm, n.d.)
Evolution	In India the main importance of the technique has always been as a method of printing textiles, which has been a large industry since at least the 10th century.  (http://jameelcentre.ashmolean.org/collection/6/1272/1274, n.d.) Large quantities of printed Indian silk and cotton were exported to Europe throughout the Modern Period.In medieval times, cotton fabrics were a major export from India to all parts of the Indian Ocean – they were in demand from East Africa to Indonesia. Historical documents from Egypt and southern Arabia refer to the significance of this trade, and the Newberry textiles provide important primary evidence. As radiocarbon analysis of key pieces has shown, most of the collection dates from the 10th to the 15th century.Textile printing:The majority of textiles in the collection were block-printed with resist (to prevent chosen areas of the fabric from being dyed) or mordant (to fix the dye more firmly to the textile fibres), or a combination of both. However, there are also some fragments that were drawn by hand. The fragments can be grouped by colour into three sub-sections – blue and white, red and white (with one or more tones of red), and red, blue, and white. The dyes used were indigo for blue, and madder or Morinda citrifolia for red. By manipulating mordants, many variations of red could be achieved. The quality of dye used was remarkable, as much of it remains vivid to this day, even where much of the fabric has disintegrated. The patterns preserved are mostly vegetal and geometric, with some figural examples, showing both humans and animals.
Photo	Source: https://www.naturesblock.com/uploads/medium/813d27f079a967d0730c58bcd3d3d31c.jpg

8. NARAYAN PETHI
Region	Solapur District
GI Status	Not Protected
Historic Links	Bavasar community
Period Of Origin	16th Century CE
Materials	Silk
Loom Type	NA
Design Pattern	Floral and animal designs
Brief Description	The Narayan Pethi saree is very popular as a traditional Maharashtrian saree, made of silk fabric. It is designed with a contrasting zari border, which is generally with rudraksha motifs.There is a distinct style attached to the Narayan Pethi sarees: the sarees have a checked surface design with embroidery and the border or pallu have intricate ethnic designs such as a temple. The borders and pallu of the Narayan Pethi silk saree are given a contrasted look with small zari designs.
Evolution	Going by historical records, in 1630 AD, the Maratha king, Chatrapati Shivaji traveled to the Narayan Peth region where he camped for a while. When he continued on his journey, a few weavers stayed behind.These were the weavers who started producing silk sarees with a distinct style of design which came to be known as Narayanpethi silk sarees. No wonder then, courtesy the weavers who migrated from the Maratha region to Narayanpeth, there is lot of Maharashtrian influence seen in Narayanpethi silk sarees.  (https://www.utsavpedia.com/textiles/narayanpet-silk-cross-culture/, n.d.)The early weavers who settled down in the Narayanpeth region in the 17th century are the pioneers of this art. The skill has been passed down from generation to generation. The entire weaver community involved in this art is located only in Narayanpeth.
Photo	Source: http://indiansboutique.com/img/p/1/9/7/0/1970-thickbox_default.jpg

9. GANGA JAMUNA SAREE
Region	Solapur District
GI Status	Not Protected
Historic Links	NA
Period Of Origin	NA
Materials	Silk
Loom Type	NA
Design Pattern	Floral and animal designs
Brief Description	The double-colored Ganga-Jamuna saris are traditional Maharashtra saris. The main characteristic of this sari is the plain weaving with solid colours on either side – both sides of the sari can thus be worn. This sari is woven on double cloth principle with two shades of colour in the warp and weft. (http://www.craftandartisans.com/ganga-jamuna-saris-of-maharashtra.html, n.d.)
Evolution	NA
Photo	Source: https://4.imimg.com/data4/GO/KJ/ANDROID-37392570/product-500×500.jpeg

10. GANESHPUR-KOSA SILK
Region	Bhandara district, Nagpur
GI Status	Not Protected
Historic Links	NA
Period Of Origin	NA
Materials	Tussar silk
Loom Type	Pit loom
Design Pattern	Floral and animal designs
Brief Description	Kosa silk is the Sanskrit name of the desi Tusser. The varieties produced in tassar-weaving are mothe choukada, a design in big squares, and lahan choukada, a weave with smaller squares. The yarns woven contain kosa and mercerised cotton. The gunja salai has diagonal designs and the coloured lines used along with this are green, blue, or orange.  (http://www.craftandartisans.com/textiles-of-maharashtra.html, n.d.)Produced mainly in India, Tussar is highly valued for its natural gold colour, which it inherits from the Antheria Paphia, Antheria Milita, and Antheria Proylei.
Evolution	As far as the history of the origin of Tussar silk is concerned, there is very little data regarding the period of its origin.
Photo	Source: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gxMCXfjCkVI/T-wIY6qp8QI/AAAAAAAAABI/Dh7Of4DzOv0/s1600/Pashmina+silk.jpg

Glossary

Bai-Machhi: As the hooks of the dobby move the yarn are moved up and down to form a design in the border.

Bai: For design formation

Baibat: Heald for lifting of yarn.

Buti: Small motifs woven on the surface of the fabric

Chain: To operate the dobby

Extra weft: An extra weft weaving technique to weave motifs.

Hank: In the textile industry, a hank is a coiled or wrapped unit of yarn or twine (as opposed to both other objects like thread or rope as well as other forms such as in a ball, cone, bobbin, spool, etc). This is often the best form for use with handlooms, compared to the cone form needed for power looms. Hanks come in varying lengths depending on the type of material and the manufacture.

Jali: Lattice pattern

Kansari: For stretching the fabric to maintain the width.

Khana: Type of fabric with diamond pattern

Khilapatti: For division of the warp yarn

Khoot: For forming the design in the chain.

Khoot: The root foundation of the loom

Mangtha: The handloom.

Nachni: The hanging ropes, to operate the heald to dobby for forming design as well as shade.

Pavadi/Payachada: To operate the alternate baibhat (heald).

Payasara: It is in the pit and is used to lift the heald.

Peldanda: It is in the pit and is operated with leg for formation of shade.

Phirke: Bobbin ensuring the motion of weft yarns.

Pinda/Kakda: The stick on which the warp yarn is rolled over.

Pinjara: Dobby, used for design in the borders

Rool: For shifting of yarn

Rudraksha motif: Rudraksha, literal translation Shiva’s eye, is a seed traditionally used as prayer beads in Hinduism. The seed is produced by several species of large evergreen broad-leaved tree in the genus Elaeocarpus, with Elaeocarpus ganitrus being the principal species.

Nari: Shuttle

Taat: Reed for weaving & wetting of cloth.

Thoon: The cloth roller

Wajan: Weight attached over Kakda/pinda for stress.

Zari: Shiny metallic yarn used mostly for patterns in dobby technique

Information Source : https://www.sahapedia.org/introduction-the-handlooms-of-maharashtra